Friday, April 22, 2011


Spoke to Matt at again today. Got a shit-ton of good info from him regarding the lake headers he's making for my 327. I asked his thoughts on ceramic coatings vs. chrome for his headers. Matt prefers ceramic coatings and frankly that's where I was leaning. I mentioned I didn't like the way chrome headers tend to discolor and blue. That's when Matt told me something I was totally unaware of. Ceramic, while able to withstand higher temperatures than chrome will flake off of pipes if they run too hot. Matt stressed how vital it is to tune an engine, jet carbs properly and have everything dialed-in before bolting on his headers, whether they're ceramic-coated or chromed. He explained that a motor running too rich, for example a multi-carbed engine with not enough cam, could run as hot as 2800 degrees at the pipes. The best ceramic coatings on the planet can only withstand about 2200 degrees, tops. His suggestion? Tune and jet your carbs through shitty headers or stock manifolds and make sure its dialed in before you bolt on the "pretty" pipes. With over ten years of experience making headers for people day in and day out, suffice it to say that Matt is a wealth of information to a hobbyist like myself. I haven't even got my pipes from him and he's already saved me the time and money by preventing a potentially costly mistake. Try getting that from a major manufacturer. So if you need pipes and/or some solid exhaust advice, Matt is you man.  Enough about exhaust. Onward.

Saturday, April 16, 2011


SaltFlatMatt from the HAMB aka and I had one more chat about my headers yesterday. He's a great guy to deal with and really works to make sure you're getting exactly what you want. I knew I wanted lakes with his best baffles. But when I got to his site, I really dug the swept style lakes he's offering. So I upgraded to those. Then Matt and I started talking about the sweep downs that he makes and suggested I hold off, given the added expense. Until I mentioned that I was going to have my pipes coated. At that point, it made more sense to order everything I'd need since it would all have to be coated. So it's all ordered. The sweep style headers (note the curvature of the pipes as they go into the main pipe), the downturns, and the baffles. I'll likely use Matt's supplier on the coatings, too. I'll keep you posted on that. Exhaust? Check!
The parts piles grows. One less thing to buy before the build is back on. Hehehe


Once in a while I come across something so cool that I have to put in on this blog so I'll remember it months later when I'm finally at that point in my own build. I'll want to refer back to this when it comes time to figure out my steering wheel. This is a picture from a thread I just read on the HAMB blog covering an old racer's trick for creating a "grippy" texture for the steering wheel. It involves wrapping string or leather lacing around the wheel's rim and then coating it in a clear hardener. As I followed the thread, I came across an interior shot of one of my favorite RPU's, so I liberated this particular picture from the thread as a great reference shot. It not only shows a bitchen  wrapped steering wheel, but a killer interior as well. Note the super tasty gauge placement, the bolsters on the seats, the matting instead of carpeting, and of course, the finish work overall. Wish I were right-hand driving something this cool.
Thanks for the inspiration yet again, HAMB. 
One more thing: this explanation below was given about how one continues the wrap when arriving at the wheel's spoke. Worth noting as well:
When you are wrapping the twine in the same direction around the circumference of the steering wheel. you get to a spoke, you make a few loose wraps around the spoke, then thread the twine under this loop, around to the back of the steering wheel where you then thread it through the backside of the loop around the spoke, then back to the front, etc. until you get past the spoke, then proceed to once again wrap in the same direction around the wheel. I also made a side view of how I believe the wrap is done through the loop around the spoke. Of course the real deal would look one hell of a lot better.....

Tuesday, April 5, 2011


As luck would have it, we set-up the booth directly across from Matt, owner of at the Lone Star Round Up this past weekend. As those of you who’ve been following this post know, I’ve been contemplating what type of headers to run on the ’29.

Note the graceful taper of the pipes. Still undecided about running Matt's turndowns.
This is the basic premise. Matt's going to set me up with the quietest baffle he offers.
As the show went on, I had ample opportunity to chat with Matt about his product line. The more I watched his lakes-style pipes blowing out of his booth, the more convinced I became that they’d be the perfect setup for my roadster’s 327. I asked Matt a lot of questions about the internal baffles he offered and ultimately decided I was interested in making them as quiet as a pair of his lake headers could be. Matt suggested running the extra baffles and tucking them as far forward in the pipes as possible. Knowing that Matt fully understood what I wanted, I signed up for a fully welded set of his lakes-style headers with his quietest baffling. He quoted me two weeks to a month to have them welded up and ready to ship. So there you have it. The parts pile continues to grow. The next question will be what to coat the headers with. Nickel plating, JetHot coating and ceramic metallic coating are a few options that come to mind. More on this later.